Wiring A Shower

Disclaimer: Please Note: You should always get a competent professional to carry out relevant works. Because this is electrical work we would recommend using an *approved electrical contractor. Safety is always the most important aspect of any job so we always advise adhering to this information. Any information or ‘advice’ we provide is given on the basis that you will only carry out any works if you are ^competent and *approved in this field. If you are not ^competent and *approved in the field of work you are carrying out then you are doing so at your own risk.

*Approved by KPLC or equivalent.
^Competent – Has relevant experience or qualification in this field of work

Types of shower – electrical supply not required:

An electrical supply will not be required if you install either a manual mixer shower or a thermostatic mixer shower.

Types of showers requiring an electrical supply:

The two main types of shower which require an electrical supply are:

  1. Electric shower – Electric showers are generally considered to be quick and relatively easy to fit.  They have an internal heating element which means that only a cold water supply is required.  The electrical supply must be sufficient for both the heating element and the pump.
  2. Power shower – Sometimes these are confused with electric showers (above) because their appearance is similar.  However, they do not have a heating element, instead drawing water from both the hot and cold water supplies in your house.  They also contain a pump which increases the water pressure for a better and more satisfying shower.  They work well with low-pressure systems.  More sophisticated power showers are thermostatically controlled meaning that hot and cold water are mixed to maintain a steady outlet water temperature.  The electrical supply required is much lighter since there is no heating element.

A–Electric Shower–Typical Power Supply requirements:

An electric shower must be supplied on a dedicated circuit and must not be spurred off other connections or appliances.  The fuseboard must be rated at or above 60 amps. The supply to the shower must include an RCD (Residual Current Device) which may either be part of the existing fuseboard or additional to it.  Connection to the fuseboard must be via an MCB (Miniature Circuit Breaker).  Ratings of fuses, switches and cable must also be taken into consideration and (although using 10mm cable will facilitate later upgrades) it may be helpful to use the following requirements guide:

Electric Shower Power Ratings and Power Cable Information

  • Showers rated at 7kW or less may be fed using 6mm cable provided that the shower unit is located within 18 metres of the fuseboard (measured along the cable run).  Fuses and switches must be rated at 32 amps.
  • Showers rated at 9.5kW or less may be fed using 10mm cable provided that the shower unit is located within 35 metres of the fuseboard (measured along the cable run).  Fuses and switches must be rated at 45 amps.
  • Showers rated at 12.5kW or less may be fed using 10mm cable provided that the shower unit is located within 35 metres of the fuseboard (measured along the cable run).  Fuses and switches should be rated at 50 amps.

In every installation the circuit to an Electric Shower must include a double-pole switch (ceiling mounted pull cord) with a neon light and a mechanical “On/Off” indicator should the neon light fail.

What you will need:

Equipment

Electric Shower

Tools

To complete this job, you may require some or all of the following tools:

Installation

The shower unit may be in position and plumbed in before the electrical connections are made.  Alternatively, you may decide to complete the electrical installation prior to installing the shower unit.  Either way, the safest and tidiest way of completing the electrical connections is to work back from the shower unit making the connection to the Consumer Unit last.

Step 1
Decide on a suitable location for the ceiling pull switch.  Attach it to the ceiling, making sure that it is firmly attached (ideally through the ceiling and into a ceiling joist) and that you have left yourself sufficient room to pass the cable through and make the electrical connections.

Step 2
Cut off a suitable length of cable to connect the shower unit to the pull switch.  Strip back the outer sheath and the insulation as necessary and connect one end of the cable to the shower.  Connect the other end of the cable to the pull switch.  Leave the pull switch in the “off” position as shown by the mechanical indicator.

Step 3
Decide on a suitable position for the Shower Consumer Unit adjacent to the existing consumer unit in your house.  Decide on a suitable route for the cable run linking the pull switch and the consumer unit.  These decisions usually need to be taken together as one can influence the other.

Step 4
Attach the Shower Consumer Unit securely to the wall where it is to be located, again making sure that you have left yourself sufficient room to pass the cable through and make the electrical connections.

Step 5
Cut off a suitable length of cable to connect the pull switch to the Shower Consumer Unit.  Strip back the outer sheath and the insulation as necessary and connect one end of the cable to the pull switch.  Connect the other end of the cable to the Shower Consumer Unit.

Step 6
Isolate the supply at the Domestic Consumer Unit and check that it is not live using a suitable multimeter.  Ensure that it is impossible for the supply to be restored without your knowledge.

Step 7
Connect the Shower Consumer Unit to the Domestic Consumer Unit using a pair of meter tails, trimmed to length as necessary.  Leave the Shower Consumer Unit in the “off” or “isolated” position.

Step 8
Check all connections that you have made in readiness for switching on the power supply.

Step 9
Only when the shower is finally installed and ready to use should you switch the Shower Consumer unit and the pull switch “on”.

Step 10
Test your installation as desired prior to use.

B–Power Shower–Typical Power Supply requirements:

It is recommended that you bring the supply to a power shower directly from a 30mA RCD (Residual Current Device) fitted into the Domestic Consumer unit (distribution board) in your property.  However, the current drawn by a power shower is generally so small (typically 1A or less) that the shower can be connected into an adjacent lighting circuit provided you are absolutely certain that the circuit is protected by an RCD.

What you will need:

Equipment

  • Power Shower
  • The protecting RCD should have a 30mA tripping current rating
  • Sufficient cable (1.5mm core recommended) to make the cable run from the shower installation to the ceiling switch and from there to the Domestic Consumer Unit.
  • Suitable cable can be found here
  • Pull switch – a suitable ceiling switch can be found here
  • Cable clips – for example, 4mm Grey T&E Clips
  • Earth sleeving

Tools

To complete this job, you may require some or all of the following tools:

Installation

The shower unit may be in position and plumbed in before the electrical connections are made.  Alternatively, you may decide to complete the electrical installation prior to installing the shower unit.  Either way, the safest and tidiest way of completing the electrical connections is to work back from the shower unit making the connection to the Domestic Consumer Unit last.

Step 1
Decide on a suitable location for the ceiling pull switch.  Attach it to the ceiling, making sure that it is firmly attached (ideally through the ceiling and into a ceiling joist) and that you have left yourself sufficient room to pass the cable through and make the electrical connections.

Step 2
Cut off a suitable length of cable to connect the shower unit to the pull switch.  Strip back the outer sheath and the insulation as necessary and connect one end of the cable to the shower.  Connect the other end of the cable to the pull switch.

Step 3
Decide on a suitable route for the cable run linking the pull switch to the Domestic Consumer Unit.

Step 4
Isolate the supply at the Domestic Consumer Unit and check that it is not live using a suitable multimeter.  Ensure that it is impossible for the supply to be restored without your knowledge.

Step 5
Fit the RCD or RCBO into the Domestic Consumer Unit.

Step 6
Cut off a suitable length of cable to connect the pull switch to the RCD (or RCBO).  Strip back the outer sheath and the insulation as necessary and connect one end of the cable to the pull switch.  Connect the other end of the cable to the RCD (or RCBO).

Step 7
Ensure that the RCD (or RCBO) is set to “off” or “isolated”.

Step 8
Check all connections that you have made, in readiness for switching on the power supply.

Step 9
Only when the shower is finally installed and ready to use should you switch the RCD (or RCBO) to its “on” position.

Step 10
Test your installation as desired prior to use.

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